Monday, June 22, 2009

The Learning Curve

An example of red figure pottery from the National Archaeological Museum

Carter and myself setting out on our AVT adventure!

(left-right): Alex, Carter, Ingva, Dwanna, Katie, myself, and Kenny on Aegina (Lindsey is taking this photo)


(left-right): myself, Alex, Ingva, Katie, Carter, Dwanna, Kenny, and Lindsey being AWESOME in front of the Temple to Aphaia at Aegina


The Temple to Aphaia at Aegina
My pottery bucket at the beginning of last week- it was totally full by Friday


The original trench crew of Beta Zeta! (left-right): myself, Lindsey, Kenny, Alicia, Kat, Marcie, Elizabetta, Katherine, and Jamie


Dwanna and I at Potluck Tuesday- I attempted to make the mango guac (of course), but my avacados were rotten! I made mango salsa instead-it turned out to be suprisingly delicious!


Now that the first week’s uncertainty has worn off, time has been flying by. It seems like only a few hours ago that I was sitting in Starbucks (where I can always go to get a taste of home) writing my first blog post! Thank you all so much for your support through blog comments and e-mails- these have definitely helped me to adjust to life far from home.
This second week has passed so quickly! I spent most of my time in BZ (the same trench I was in during the first week), and I enjoyed my second week there as much as I enjoyed the first. Now that I feel more confident in my abilities as an excavator (and now that my muscles are starting to get used to all the squatting), I’ve been able to relax and really enjoy digging- although I’m not sure if I’ll ever get used to waking up at 5:30 am! During this week, I’ve continued to learn about the art of archaeology and some of the little tricks that accompany the trade. For example, on Monday I presented a fellow digger with yet another artifact and asked her to help me discern whether it was a red rock or a piece of pottery. “Why don’t you just lick it and find out yourself?” was her response. I thought she was kidding until she explained that because pottery is porous, it will stick to your tongue when licked, whereas rocks are not porous so they’ll slide right off! Ever since that conversation I seem to be continually sticking dirty artifacts in my mouth. It works incredibly well- I’m not just deliberately ignoring the childhood lessons my mom taught me!
I also learned that only a very small fraction of the finds we make in the field are actually saved, and even fewer are catalogued (recorded by the location they were found in, or provenience, and the artifact’s type/period). The Agora excavations have been going on for over 50 years, so although we are constantly finding more artifacts, the only pieces worth saving are those which are especially interesting or those that can teach us something new about the area in which they were found. For example, in the last 2 weeks, I’ve discovered a small bucket’s worth of pot sherds (probably about 70 pieces of various shapes and sizes), and of those 70-ish pieces, less than 10 will be saved and maybe only one of them will be catalogued. Needless to say, it’s a bit heartbreaking to watch the supervisors go through the finds and decide what’s worth keeping and what is not.
One of the most exciting finds I made this week (the one find that might be catalogued) was a small red figure* pot sherd depicting the profile of a young man! Due to the dirt, I couldn’t tell at first what the picture was of so I brought it up to my supervisor, Marcie, who cleaned it off and revealed the youth’s face. I have to admit that I shed a few tears of joy over this find. In BZ, this is the first piece of red figure pottery we’ve found- all of the other pieces have depicted black figure imagery. This was a significant find because red figure pottery is thought to be more recent than black figure, so we can now date the walls of the room in which I was digging according to the time period of the red figure sherd! Unfortunately, I’ve learned that the Greek government would prefer if the diggers would refrain from posting close up pictures of our finds on public internet sites, so I can’t post the red figure profile on my blog. If you’re interested, however, shoot me a note and I can e-mail the picture to you personally.
*Red figure pottery basically means that the original vase would have been coated in black paint except for the pictures on the outside, which would have been etched into the black paint and thus remained a reddish color like the clay of the pot. Correspondingly, black figure pottery means that the original vase would have been the terracotta color of the clay and the figures would have been drawn on with black paint. Red figure pottery is typically thought to be “newer” than black figure- red figure is said to have been invented around 525 BC, and black figure around 625 BC.
This week I also learned of many “weekly digger traditions”. For example, Tuesdays after work the diggers go to the James Joyce Pub and order bowls and bowls of homemade mashed potatoes and then head home to prepare a dish for the newly instituted Tuesday pot luck dinner, Thursdays are when each trench crew comes together to hang out before pizza a Professor Camp’s, Fridays are when diggers usually go out for dinner together to celebrate pay day and to treat themselves after a week’s hard work, etc. These traditions and the time spent together in the trench and after work have been great sources of community for all of us and through them I’ve gotten to know many more wonderful people! I speak for many of us when I say that the friendships formed on the dig are the type that last for a lifetime.
Another lesson I learned this week was rather disheartening. On Saturday a large group of diggers took a ferry to a nearby island called Aegina. Our plan was to rent scooters and drive around the coast to visit the Temple to Aphaia and the beautiful beaches the island boasts. Those of you who know of my love for scooters will understand my excitement about the weekend’s prospects. When we arrived at Aegina, we turned over our licenses, paid for our scooters, and put on our helmets to take off. Soon, however, the Greek scooter dealer discovered that none of us had driven a 2-wheeled vehicle before, and he wouldn’t let us take the scooters! He wouldn’t even give us a lesson on how to drive them and he actually made us take ATV’s instead because he said we’d all kill ourselves for sure if we even attempted to sit on a scooter. We may have believed him except for the fact that some other diggers (who had also never driven scooters before) arrived at Aegina an hour later and they were allowed to rent scooters from a different dealer, despite their identical lack of scooter experience! Now, more than ever, I am resolved to drive a scooter before I leave Greece. Despite the scooter fiasco, our day on Aegina was a fantastic time. The ATV’s were good fun, the beach was restful and quiet, and the Temple to Aphaia was, of course, both awesome and beautiful. It’s great to be surrounded by people who appreciate and understand the history of this place and yet can also appreciate the natural and cultural beauty that Greece has to offer.
Today was a restful day and a few of us spent the majority of the afternoon at the National Archaeological Museum of Athens on the pot floor. I don’t think I could ever tire of looking at the pots of antiquity- they have so many stories to tell! I’ve really enjoyed being surrounded on all sides by museums (all of which the excavators have free entry to-thanks to the American School). I’m especially excited to check out the new Acropolis Museum in the next few weeks. The whole city has been buzzing lately about the grand opening because it has been several years in the making.
Tomorrow I’ll start working in a new trench, beta theta, which is one of the newest areas that’s been opened for excavation in the Agora. From what I’ve heard about this area, I’ll be doing a good deal of “dirt moving” and digging in Byzantine levels for the next 2 weeks. We’ll see what turns up during this rotation! I’m excited to be in a new area, although I will really miss my old trench and the diggers I have been working with thus far. But every day I’m learning something new, and I can only learn more by working in a new trench with new people.









Sunday, June 14, 2009

An Adventure From the Beginning

Me and Steve at the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion
Sunset at Sounion

Dwanna, myself, and Caroline sporting our great archaeology hats...



the commercial rooms where I'm digging in BZ


view from the amphitheatre between Athens and Corinth

our Greek workmen moving a massive stone by hand from our trench so we could dismantle a wall



Mount Lykavettos- my flat is located on the side of the mountain

Me with my lykothos, my pick, and my archaeology hat

I arrived in the Athens airport last Sunday, June 7, safe and sound only to start my summer with a small adventure. I boarded a bus bound for the HILTON HOTEL stop in the Kolanaki district in Athens, which is located near my flat. I had my laptop case, my purse and my 46 pound mountaineering backpack that contained all of my belongings. I’d never been to this district before, but I had confidence that I could find my apartment without a problem because it’s on the slopes of Mount Lykavettos, so I thought that if I walked uphill, I could eventually find it. Unfortunately, the busses in Athens don’t announce or display which stops they are arriving at, so I missed my unmarked stop. I eventually realized that I had gone too far and got off the bus at Syntagma Square because I’m familiar with that area. (I later discovered that Syntagma is a 30 minute walk from my flat, and that’s without a 46 pound backpack). I stood at the bus stop and watched the bus drive away, wondering how I could ever find my way to my apartment alone. I soon found some American tourists looking at a map which I borrowed so I could find the Hilton Hotel, and between them and a friendly Greek taxi driver, I was able to start off in the right direction. Along the way, I made several wrong turns and attempted to use my patchy Greek to ask for new directions from at least 3 friendly locals and another group of American tourists. Thank goodness most people in Athens speak English! I finally arrived at the American School of Classical Studies and found a security guard who gave me a mysterious envelope that contained a hand-drawn map of Kolanaki, a set of keys, and a rooming list. He then told me to walk up the street and find my flat, “It’s very easy,” he said.
That’s what he thought.
I had to ask for directions to my flat from 3 more Athenians along the way, and when I finally found my building, I couldn’t find the right door! Even an older Greek man (with very limited English) tried to help me for 10 minutes, but in vain. Somehow I ended up trying my key in the right door and climbing up the 4 flights of stairs to my flat only to realize that Athenian locks are incredibly stubborn, and I couldn’t get in the door. I walked up and down the stairwell in dismay, sweating profusely, emitting horrible body odor from the 13 hour journey and the 1 hour uphill hike, still toting my 46 pound backpack, not knowing what to do, until I heard American voices coming from within a room on the first floor. Praise the Lord! I knocked on the door to discover that the voices belonged to a group of excavators that I’d be working with all summer. What a first impression.
After I got settled (and had a shower), things started to calm down. I met my roommates, Alicia and Kelly, who are a few years older than me but very friendly. This is their first season at the Agora excavations, just like me. I also got acquainted with the girls who helped me get into my flat- they live downstairs in my building. That night we all went to John Camp’s Athenian residence (he is the director of the dig) for pizza and to meet the rest of the excavators. They are wonderful people! The majority of us are American grad students, but there are also a few other American undergrads and several international student from Sardinia, Tunisia, Canada, England, Korea, Norway, and several other countries. Everyone is very welcoming and outgoing- we’ve had a great time together so far. There are about 45 of us, so if feels much like the first few days at camp usually feel. We’re all trying to get acquainted and find out who has similar interests, etc.
On Monday we got to sleep in and then had a tour of the 5 different trenches within the Agora, where we’ll be digging all summer. Then we were dismissed a group of us went up to the Acropolis. It was very good to be back, and I don’t think I could ever get tired of looking at the ancient monuments of Athens. Then my roommates and I went and got groceries, napped, and got comfortable with our new surroundings. Kolanaki is the posh district in Athens, so everything from the food to the clothes is ridiculously overpriced. But we’re within walking distance to some great (cheaper) districts such as Monastiraki and Plaka, both of which I’m very familiar with.
On Tuesday we got our trench assignments and I started working in a trench called BZ (or beta zeta), which is across the street from the Agora proper, and I’ll be working there next week as well. My supervisors are Marci and Katherine, and they are wonderful. They answer all of my many questions and are great about teaching me. This is my first dig, so I’m grateful for their patience and teaching ability! We rotate trenches every 2 weeks so as not to get burned out, but I’ll be sad to leave my area and my supervisors. A typical workday looks like this:
5:30am: Rise and Shine!
7:00am: Start digging
9:00am: Cookie time (a wonderful thing)
11:00am: Lunch
11:30am: Back to the trenches
1:00pm: Water break
2:00pm: Quitting time
By the end of the day, the temperature this week has been around 37 degrees Centigrade (about 98 degrees Fahrenheit), and we’re exhausted from squatting, digging, and standing in the hot sun. Our workday is definitely long enough! Then we have our evenings free for dinner, exploring, and my favorite time, the Greek siesta.
Most of Tuesday and Wednesday we spent cleaning the dirt, grime, and garbage of the past 2 years off of our dirt so we could start excavations. I’m famous in my trench for my ability to get my dirt very clean. An Italian excavator in my trench, Elizabeta, compared me to the “Cleaner Bear”, which I’m assuming is the Italian version of a cross between Mr. Clean and the Energizer Bunny…
Thursday and Friday we spent actually excavating! It’s hard work, but it’s a true surprise when you use your pick to loosen the ground and then sweep away the loose ground to reveal a pot sherd (broken piece) or a coin! The area I’m digging in is bursting with pottery pieces, which makes digging very fun. My most exciting find so far has been a perfect half of a 6th century BC lekythos (a small vase used for perfume in ancient Greece) with part of a black figure painting on one side. Very exciting stuff! I’m digging in a sort of ancient garbage pit, so it’s unlikely that I’ll find any complete pottery in my area, but I will find lots of pieces and parts of artifacts.
All the excavators usually get together for pizza at John Camp’s on Thursday, but this week myself and 5 other diggers opted to take a bus to a production of Alcestis that was being put on at a resort between Athens and Corinth. The production was decent, especially considering the fact that one of the actors vomited on stage during her opening lines, and the scenery around the modern amphitheatre was amazing. It was right on the sea. Beautiful! And we also had a delicious 5 course Greek meal afterwards. The best part- it was all free because the American School paid for us and their summer session students to enjoy an evening of entertainment.
This weekend has been very restful. Yesterday about 20 of the diggers in our crew got a bus to Sounion and visited the Temple to Poseidon. We went swimming there and lounged on the beach. It was a very much deserved day of rest after our exhausting first week of excavations.
Between excavations, getting to know my fellow diggers, and traveling around Attica to take in the Greek culture, this week has been absolutely wonderful! I’m exhausted and I fear that my digging clothes are permanently stained brown from the dust of excavating, but I am truly enjoying being back in this incredible city! Hopefully this week I’ll be making some more finds in BZ and I’ll get used to the physical aspect of excavation. I’m looking forward to many new adventures!